• Home
    About Build Your Imagination

  • Gallery
    Commissioned Work
    Completed Armies
    Dioramas
    Battle Reports
    Inquisitor Articles
    The First Founding Project
    30k Space Wolves
    40k Ork Army
    40k Deathwatch Army
    40k World Eaters Army
    40k Sisters of Battle Army
    40k Plaguemarine Army
    40k Blood Angels Army
    40k Crimson Fists Army
    Bolt Action German Army
    WHFB Dwarf Army
    WHFB Goblin Army

  • Guides
    Conversion: Kneeling Figures
    Conversion: Malifaux Slop Hauler
    Conversion: Repeater Crossbows
    Conversion: Reposing Limbs
    Modelling: Cork Bases
    Modelling: Gap Filling
    Modelling: Paved Bases
    Modelling: Pinning
    Modelling: Using Guitar Wire
    Modelling: Water Bases
    Sculpting: Banded Armour
    Sculpting: Belts
    Sculpting: Laurels
    Sculpting: Rivets
    Sculpting: Skull Icons

  • Other
    Video Guides

  • Links
  • Modelling Technique: Pinning


    "Greenstuff" Gav

    Hi and welcome.
    As I sit here idly converting an inquisitor figure, trying desperatly to type something that might have use to you (after all, you are reading this, right?) I remembered something i overheard a couple of months back.
    A simple phrase, "I dont know how to pin"...
    Everyone knows generally how to do it, yet not many people actually do it.

    Pinning is simply using something solid to reinforce a joint. When Inquisitor was released we were told that all Inquisitor figures needed pinning due to their larger scale.
    In part this is true, any larger model will benefit from the extra stregth given by a "pin", bloodthister wings for example are in dire need of pinning, but by no means is it a vital technique.
    I find pinning models who sit on flying bases is a good plan, as if you don't glue the flying base (with its pin) to the figure, they fit into a carry case easier... whichever figure you are pinning, the technique is simple.

    Firstly, clean up the surfaces to be pinned. A good clean-cut filed-flat surface is best to work from. and will save you time and patience

    Next we drill a hole in each surface, doing your best to get them to line up. i have put a small blob of paint onto one surface and held it against the second, giving the perfect guide mark, but generally I guess!
    Preferably about 5mm deep eachsides (or thereabouts, certainly no more than 1/3 way through the figure!), try to use a drillbit the same width as the material you are pinning with (more in a moment)

    Find out and clean up your pinning material.
    The main material for pinning is readily available in most places; a paperclip straightened out.
    I tend to use whatever thin flat metal i have to hand. At the moment this seems to be copper wiring (don't ask!)

    The next step is easy; put a dap of superglue into the hole on one of the pieces and stick the pin into it.
    Trying to keep the pin straight is a good thing.
    Leaving this until your glue is dry is an important point, else when you are cutting the pin it'll move or break.

    Once the glue is dry, cut the pin down slightly until it seems the right size for the hole on the other component.
    A "dry fit" of holding the peices together can help get the perfect fit.
    Once you are happy with the fit, simply put some glue into the other hole and at the top of the pinned peice, then slot the pin inside.
    Leave to dry and you should have a pretty solid joint there.


    Finally, I generally cover the joint in a thin layer of greenstuff, letting it dry before I file it to the same level as the two sides providing a solid flawless joint.

    All Images, Written Content and Design Copyright the Individual and Collective Creators of Build Your Imagination.

    buildyourimagination.co.uk (2004-2009)